Build Diary
Easter 2006  

I took a week off work prior to the Easter bank holiday so I'd have a good eight or nine days to get some work done. I started by taking the old clutch off the donor engine. I also took the opportunity to remove the flywheel so I could remove the metal plate behind the flywheel, which was bent and caked with oily dirt. Once cleaned and straightened I put it all back together with a new clutch plate, friction plate and thrust bearing. Then I bolted the gearbox back onto the engine. While it was on the floor, I also cleaned and refitted the starter motor. Remembering the problems I had removing the old engine and gearbox as a complete unit from the 'Rat I removed the carburettor and manifold from the donor engine and suspended the front of the vehicle over the engine. It was easier to lower the chassis over the engine then lift the engine into place than it would have been to lower the engine into the engine bay. Once the car was lowered over the engine I then suspended the engine and lifted it slowly up into the bay. Once in a suitable position I loosly fitted the bolts for the gearbox rear mount then the gearbox front mount. Once tightened this left the engine in the correct position for fitting of the final mount. Ah. At this point I realised that the mount for the FIRE engine was completely different from the mount for the old pushrod engine. Also, the FIRE engine is wider than the old pushrod unit so there was no room between the chassis and the engine to get a mount in anyway. I had to go for a long coffee break and ponder this problem. Not to get too boring with excruciating detail, I did come up with a solution. It took me about half a day of measuring, making drawings and templates but I managed to design two brackets, one for the chassis and one for the engine, that would overcome the space problem and give a good strong mount. I had to have these made by a local fabricator but they wouldn't be ready before I had to go home. So I had to cease work on the engine bay until I had the brackets.

Undeterred, I got on with other jobs anyway. I had the engine held in place with a block of wood between the chassis and the oil filter housing so I refitted both front driveshafts, the gear selector mechanism and 4x4 selector mechanism. In the process of refitting the gear selector mechanism I jury-rigged a solution to the 'pudding bowl' gear change effect which worked remarkably well. In the picture below, taken from FIATs electronic parts catalogue, it can be seen that there is a mount about 2/3 of the way down the gear lever (item number 13) through which passes a shouldered bolt (item 14). The bushes that this bolt also passes through (items 8) were quite badly worn, allowing a considerable amount of free, useless movement in the gear lever. Simply fitting a suitably sized washer over the threaded part of the shouldered bold took up all the slack. In the future I will replace all the bushes in the gear linkage mechanism but for now this solution works brilliantly and cost nothing.
The floor of the 'Rat is made up of galvanised sheet steel and is fastened down with a combination of rivets and welds. It is totally flat so rigidity is compromised on large spans. I decided to cut some floor panels using exterior grade plywood to make it more rigid. I cut the panels to shape and recessed the gear lever aperture plate (item 17 in the above drawing) so that the integral fastening studs would protrude through the floor enough to bolt from underneath. At this time I also trial fitted the seats so that I could get them in the right position so as not to foul the movement of the gear lever or 4x4 selector lever. This means that most of the holes required in the floor are now in place. Once the harness fixing points are sorted out the floor will be bonded in and all the items that bolt through it will hold it firmly in place, with only a few extra fixings required at the extremities of the footwells. Doing all of this has several advantages:

As already stated, the floor will be much more rigid
It should help soundproofing and reduce booming effect
It will serve to seal redundant bolt holes in the floor from previous fittings and mistakes
It will be easier to carpet
I also fitted the handbrake lever and petrol tank, both pretty straighforward jobs. However, the underbody handbrake boot required some modification to fit properly and the petrol tank filler cap will require a plate to be manufactured to hold it in place. The large circular aperture in the side panel of the 'Rat has no means of firmly locating the filler neck. One last small job was to fit the exhaust downpipe and secure it to the bracket on the gearbox provided for this purpose.