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Build
Diary
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I
took a week off work prior to the Easter bank holiday so I'd have
a good eight or nine days to get some work done. I started by taking
the old clutch off the donor engine. I also took the opportunity
to remove the flywheel so I could remove the metal plate behind
the flywheel, which was bent and caked with oily dirt. Once cleaned
and straightened I put it all back together with a new clutch plate,
friction plate and thrust bearing. Then I bolted the gearbox back
onto the engine. While it was on the floor, I also cleaned and refitted
the starter motor. Remembering the problems I had removing the old
engine and gearbox as a complete unit from the 'Rat I removed the
carburettor and manifold from the donor engine and suspended the
front of the vehicle over the engine. It was easier to lower the
chassis over the engine then lift the engine into place than it
would have been to lower the engine into the engine bay. Once the
car was lowered over the engine I then suspended the engine and
lifted it slowly up into the bay. Once in a suitable position I
loosly fitted the bolts for the gearbox rear mount then the gearbox
front mount. Once tightened this left the engine in the correct
position for fitting of the final mount. Ah. At this point I realised
that the mount for the FIRE engine was completely different from
the mount for the old pushrod engine. Also, the FIRE engine is wider
than the old pushrod unit so there was no room between the chassis
and the engine to get a mount in anyway. I had to go for a long
coffee break and ponder this problem. Not to get too boring with
excruciating detail, I did come up with a solution. It took me about
half a day of measuring, making drawings and templates but I managed
to design two brackets, one for the chassis and one for the engine,
that would overcome the space problem and give a good strong mount.
I had to have these made by a local fabricator but they wouldn't
be ready before I had to go home. So I had to cease work on the
engine bay until I had the brackets.
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Undeterred, I got on with other jobs anyway. I had the engine held
in place with a block of wood between the chassis and the oil filter
housing so I refitted both front driveshafts, the gear selector
mechanism and 4x4 selector mechanism. In the process of refitting
the gear selector mechanism I jury-rigged a solution to the 'pudding
bowl' gear change effect which worked remarkably well. In the picture
below, taken from FIATs electronic parts catalogue, it can be seen
that there is a mount about 2/3 of the way down the gear lever (item
number 13) through which passes a shouldered bolt (item 14). The
bushes that this bolt also passes through (items 8) were quite badly
worn, allowing a considerable amount of free, useless movement in
the gear lever. Simply fitting a suitably sized washer over the
threaded part of the shouldered bold took up all the slack. In the
future I will replace all the bushes in the gear linkage mechanism
but for now this solution works brilliantly and cost nothing.
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The
floor of the 'Rat is made up of galvanised sheet steel and is fastened
down with a combination of rivets and welds. It is totally flat so
rigidity is compromised on large spans. I decided to cut some floor
panels using exterior grade plywood to make it more rigid. I cut the
panels to shape and recessed the gear lever aperture plate (item 17
in the above drawing) so that the integral fastening studs would protrude
through the floor enough to bolt from underneath. At this time I also
trial fitted the seats so that I could get them in the right position
so as not to foul the movement of the gear lever or 4x4 selector lever.
This means that most of the holes required in the floor are now in
place. Once the harness fixing points are sorted out the floor will
be bonded in and all the items that bolt through it will hold it firmly
in place, with only a few extra fixings required at the extremities
of the footwells. Doing all of this has several advantages:
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As
already stated, the floor will be much more rigid |
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It
should help soundproofing and reduce booming effect |
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It
will serve to seal redundant bolt holes in the floor from previous
fittings and mistakes |
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It
will be easier to carpet |
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also fitted the handbrake lever and petrol tank, both pretty straighforward
jobs. However, the underbody handbrake boot required some modification
to fit properly and the petrol tank filler cap will require a plate
to be manufactured to hold it in place. The large circular aperture
in the side panel of the 'Rat has no means of firmly locating the
filler neck. One last small job was to fit the exhaust downpipe and
secure it to the bracket on the gearbox provided for this purpose. |
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